Thailand Birding: Autumn Migration & Phuttamonton Park

Autumn migration is in full swing now and I have had a number of people sending reports of passage migrants in parks in Bangkok recently, including a Brown-chested Jungle Flycatcher in Suan Rot Fai. With reports of Yellow-rumped Flycatchers and Tiger Shrikes from a number of locations I decided to get out and look for some passage migrants myself.

Although Suan Rot Fai seemed to be producing some good birds and with a report of Grey-backed and Tiger Shrike in Lumphini Park heading to one of Bangkok's parks seemed like the thing to do, but then I remembered Phuttamonton. This is a huge park just outside the western bounds of Bangkok in Nakorn Pathom province and although it is largely manicured, it is so big that one can always find some unkempt areas that could attract passage migrants.

Resident Birds Phuttamonton Park is not particularly rich in resident species, playing host to mostly very common birds such as Common Myna, White-vented Myna, Cattle Egret, Indian Roller, Red-wattled Lapwing, Large-billed Crow, Paddyfield Pipit, Black-crowned Night Heron, Pied Fantail and Oriental Magpie Robin. Whilst I saw all of these there were a few other species that can always be found here that made for a fairly interesting day list. I found 3 Racket-tailed Treepies and a number of Green-billed Malkohas in mature open woodland as well as good numbers of Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, but probably the most interesting residents that I found were two groups of Small Minivets and Lineated Barbet; the Minivets were very obliging and I had excellent views. The Barbet is not that abundant at Phuttamonton but I had excellent views of one and heard a couple more; Coppersmith Barbet, however, is very common here.

 

Lineated Barbet by Johan Svensson

Migrant Species Whilst the residents were nice to see, it was migrants that I had made the trip for. At first it was slow with a few Asian Brown Flycatchers and Eastern Crowned Warblers but when I found some overgrown parts of the park I ran into a couple of mixed groups of migrating birds. In fact, every time I found a part of the park that had rough undergrowth remaining under the trees, there were migrants to be found. 

At the first spot I found a few Asian Paradise Flycatchers which were aggressively chasing a number of Eastern Crowned Warblers and an Arctic Warbler. Also a Crow-billed Drongo was getting a lot of aggressive attention from resident Black and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos. 

At a second stop I found 3 Pale-legged Leaf Warblers, detected by their "tink" call, along with a Plain-tailed Warbler, a Forest Wagtail and more Eastern Crowned Warblers and Asian Brown Flycatchers. 

However, when I found an area of bamboo gardens I found lots of birds. This area was swarming with mosquitos and I got badly bitten, but that is of course what had attracted the migrant birds. Here I found Siberian Blue Robin, Ferruginous Flycatcher, Chinese Blue Flycatcher, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Taiga Flycatcher, more Asian Brown Flycatchers and Asian paradise Flycatchers, Yellow-rumped Flycatcher and more Eastern Crowned Warblers and Pale-legged Leaf Warblers - far more migrant species than I had expected.

 

Ferruginous Flycatcher by Peter Ericsson

Summary of Migrants Seen Here is a summary of all the migrant species I saw at Phuttamonton on 24/09/09. 

1 Ferruginous Flycatcher

1 female Yellow-rumped Flycatcher

1 female Chinese Blue Flycatcher

1 male Hainan Blue Flycatcher

10 Asian Brown Flycatchers

1 Taiga Flycatcher

6 Asian Paradise Flycatchers

1 female Siberian Blue Robin

1 Crow-billed Drongo

4 Brown Shrikes

1 Forest Wagtail

1 Arctic Warbler

5 Pale-legged Leaf Warblers

11 Eastern Crowned Warblers

2 Plain-tailed Warblers

20+ Yellow Wagtails

1 Chinese Pond Heron (Still in partial breeding plumage)

Many Barn Swallows

The One That Got Away One other interesting bird I saw was a White-crested Laughingthrush. This is one of my favourite species and I am always happy to see it but one doesn't really expect to see it in a park. This bird was alone, something that almost never happens to Laughingthrushes, and had no tail. Of course it was an escaped cage bird and, judging by its lack of tail and the nearby efforts of some workers to call it into be retrapped, it hadn't been free for long. Considering the terrible conditions that most birds are kept in in Thailand I hope that this one finds success in its freedom as many other White-crested Laughingthrushes have in and around Bangkok where there are a number of feral colonies.

Thailand Birding: Chulachomklao Fort

This morning I took a visit to Chulachomklao Fort at the river mouth of the Chao Praya in Samut Prakan province. There are some mangroves at this site but actually the location consists mainly of gardens, scrubland, wetland patches and buildings serving the Navy, in fact there is a pre WW2 warship there, many naval guns and a fort that fought a skirmish with the French Navy in the 19th century: Chulachomklao Fort.

However, it was birds I was after but things didn't turn out quite as well as hoped. Although there is a reasonable bit of mangrove boardwalk, which is in good condition, there were few birds in evidence. A few Pied Fantails, a couple of Golden-bellied Gerygones and lots of Collared Kingfishers were about all that was to be seen. Despite playing the call of Mangrove Whistler I neither saw nor heard one, although there seems to be enough mature mangrove remaining to support a few pairs. Common and Dark-necked Tailorbirds were also easily seen and as I was leaving the mangrove boardwalk I happened upon an Eastern Crowned Warbler - a passage migrant.

A Few Migrants
Indeed, the whole site has great potential for passage migrants, situated as it is at the mouth of a major river. Unfortunately I arrived too late in the day to pick up much migratory movement, although I did come across a few common migrants including 1 Brown Shrike, 3 Common Kingfishers, 2 Black-capped Kingfishers and a few waders; 3 Long-toed Stints, 5 Wood Sandpipers, 6 Common Sandpipers and 2 Little Ringed Plovers. Also worth noting was that out of 20-30 Pond Herons seen only 1 Chinese Pond Heron was still in breeding plumage and just 1 Javan Pond Heron - all the others were in winter plumage and unidentifiable.

Chinese Pond Heron

A few flooded areas of grassland produced a few nice birds including some more migrants, 3 Yellow Wagtails, as well as a few Great Egrets, Little Egrets, Cattle Egrets and 1 Intermediate Egret. Also in this area were 3 Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, an Indian Roller, 1 White-throated Kingfisher and a Paddyfield Pipit.

Although the birding was not spectacular, there were enough birds to make it interesting and alongside the ship, the fort and a decent seafood restaurant, this site is worth a visit - even if for just the once.

A pier goes out into the river but even just 1 hour before low tide there was no sign of any mud being exposed although the view out to sea produced many Whiskered Terns, Little Cormorants, a few Indian Cormorants and lots of Great Egrets.

By 1pm I decided it was time to quit and go home, but I always seem to find myself hunting down more birds and in this way I came across a Black-crowned Night Heron and 2 Brahminy Kites.

Public Transport
Public transport to this spot does exist but it would involve such a convoluted set of connections that I don't recommend trying. Come here in a taxi or your own vehicle and stay for a nice lunch.

Lots of Common Species
Although I didn't find many notable birds at Chulachomklao there were lots of birds to see. Brown-throated and Olive-backed Sunbirds were both common as were Oriental Magpie Robin, Streak-eared Bulbul, Scaly-breasted Munia, Asian Koel, Common Myna, White-vented Myna, Asian Pied Starling, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Eastern Jungle Crow, Spotted Dove etc.; all the species that are common in any open-country and park situation.

Other Wildlife
Apart from birds I saw a number of large Water Monitors and two small parties of Long-tailed (Crab-eating) Macaques that were very nervous of humans - probably used to navy personel throwing stones at them. Additionally I happened upon a small green snake which fell out of a mangrove tree onto my shoulder before flicking itself off into the water: I don't know if it was me or the snake that was more shocked. One other bit of (unwelcome) wildlife were a lot of aggressive mosquitos.

Thailand Birding: Mangroves at Samut Sakorn

This morning I decided to pay a visit to the Mangrove Research Centre at Samut Sakorn in hope of finding it a good place to see Mangrove Whistler. Having read in Phil Round's  "The Birds of the Bangkok Area" that both this species and Asian Dowitcher were frequently seen at this location I had high hopes, however, finding the site didn't prove so easy.

This location is situated to the west of the Tachin River and after crossing it I found the correct turn off. After this I got a bit lost but eventually discovered that the route in is not so convoluted after all. In time I will create a page, with full directions, for this site on the Birdwatching Locations directory on thaibirding.com but for now this image from Google Earth will have to suffice.

Once at the research station I was looking forward to walking on the mangrove boardwalks. However, they are in a treacherous state of repair and in fact have closed signs boarded across them. With a little trepidation it is possible to walk a short distance along one section but even this involved tiptoeing across lots of weak and broken boards; anyone weighing over 75kgs should not attempt it at all.

Still, the mangroves were quite birdy, which was something of a surprise to me as I usually find mangroves to be somewhat sterile. Golden-bellied Gerygone, Common Tailorbird, Pied Fantail, Collared Kingfisher and Common Iora were all very common and numerous. Whilst walking to the shore I also saw Oriental Magpie Robin and a single Racket-tailed Treepie in mangroves.

Unfortuantely the tide was a long way out and shorebirds were quite distant. Through my 'scope I could see hundreds of Common Greenshank, Common Redshank along with a few Eurasian Curlew, 50-70 Whimbrel and around 200 Black-winged Stilts. Also present were large numbers of Javan Pond Heron, Little Heron, Little Egret and Great Egret. On the water's edge a huge flock of Whiskered Terns contained a few White-winged Terns still in partial breeding plumage and at least 3 Gull-billed Terns. There were no Asian Dowitchers.

In fact I was more interested in Mangrove Whistlers than Dowitchers as I know this is a good spot for the Dowitcher - I just timed the tide wrongly and got a bit unlucky. So, I did my best with the mangrove boardwalk but had to turn around after a few hundred metres due to its terrible state. However, I managed to run into quite a few birds including a flock of Oriental White-eyes, a male Brown-throated Sunbird, lots of Golden-bellied Gerygones and Pied Fantails followed by my target; 2 Mangrove Whistlers being very confiding. As I watched these, a flicker of yellow caught my eye and I turned to see a male Yellow-rumped Flycatcher performing nicely quite close. With the departure of these birds after about 10 minutes and the collapsing walkway I decided it was time to take a few photos and go home for lunch.

As I walked around taking photos I ran into a few more birds including large numbers of Germain's Swiftlet and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters overhead, a Brown Shrike, several Barn Swallows, a Common Kingfisher, 2 Streak-eared Bulbuls and some Spotted Doves.

Scarlet Pimpernel

They seek him here

They seek him there

Those Frenches seek him everywhere

Is he in Heaven?

Or is he in Hell?

That demned illusive Pimpernel.

Odds fish m'dear!

Flamborough Head

Yesterday I suddenly realised that I hadn't seen any seabirds this year and as Flamborough is just 40 minutes away I drove there whilst the weather was acceptable. I didn't see anything unexpected but it was nice to watch large numbers of Kittiwakes, Gannets, Puffins, Razorbills and Guillemots go about their business.

Lots of Gannets were flying past, both north and south with quite a number of juveniles amongst the flocks. Kittiwakes were the most numerous with better numbers of juveniles fledging than in the previous few years when the breeding season was a massive failure. Below is a picture of Kittiwakes nesting on one of the cliffs.

Whilst watching these a single Fulmar flew past as did a pair of noisy Sandwich Terns. Good numbers of House Martins and Swifts were feeding in the air and a couple of Skylarks were in aerial song. On the rocks below the cliffs were large numbers of gulls; Herring Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Great Black-backed Gull and a single Black-headed Gull along with a few Oystercatchers and a lone Redshank.

I took a walk around some of the farmland adjacent to the cliffs where I came across a Pied Wagtail, a Wren, a male Reed Bunting, 2 Meadow Pipits and a Coot on a farm pond. This farmland is being managed for wildlife and there were loads of nice flowers in the field margins including piles of Kidney Vetch, pictured below.

Blea Tarn and Eskdale

With another huge fried breakfast inside me I headed uphill from Boot village towards Blea Tarn. The by now customary Yellowhammers, Willow Warblers, Wrens and Chaffinches were joined by plenty of Robins, including a number of juveniles, and a family party of Great Tits.

Once upon the ridgetop a Raven flew over doing its best demonstration of its "graak, graak" call and a Kestrel was hunting over some very boggy land. Somehow I got a bit lost amongst the crags and bogs, which is strange as this is exactly what happened to my dad and I when we came up here 27 years ago - he carried me across the bogs - this time I had to manage on my own getting very wet feet in the process. I found Blea Tarn and nearby Stiny Tarn where a Reed Bunting was busy calling - a quite unexpected species here. The view across the valley to Harter Fell, where I was yesterday was quite good and foretold the rain that was to come later.

Harter Fell

I walked across the moors where some old druid circles exist and some farmers were using sheepdogs to round up sheep before heading downhill. The path down was full of birds with 5 Tree Pipits, 2 juvenile Great Spotted Woodpeckers, a male Blackcap, a Whitethroat and many more common species.
Back down in the valley I walked down to the River Eske and along through the woods. Whilst walking across some fields I came across some juvenile Swallows being fed by their parents and allowing me to approach very closely: a nearby sheep seemed very interested in the whole episode too!


The woodlands were once again alive with species; Coal Tit, Nuthatch, Treecreeper, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest, Blue Tit, Song Thrush, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Green Woodpecker and a pair of Jays. The river Eske here is very beautiful, I remember having picnics here when I was small but today a Grey Wagtail was picnicking on insects. Heading back to the car the rain began to fall quite heavily so I drove to the coastal village of Ravenglass.

Eel Tarn and Burnmoor Tarn

I decided to go to the Lake District National Park for a few days, despite the weather forecast being for rather poor weather. The national park took me about 3 hours to get to, but the journey took another hour as I was heading for the western lakes, probably the most spectacular part.

I headed into Eskedale and found a B&B at the foot of Hardknott Pass, a place called Wha House Farm. It was a nice place to stay with lovely views and the lady running it was very friendly. The weather forecast was wrong, with fairly good weather, just a little cloud and only on the highest mountains, so I went off for a walk at about 3.45pm. Starting at the Woolpack Inn, I headed uphill to Eel Tarn. A number of birds were easily seen with a Greenfinch at the pub and a Willow Warbler in the trees just behind. A small conifer plantation behind the Woolpack Inn provided the launching point for 2 male Redpolls to perform their song flight. Unexpectedly, the bracken covered hillside was full of Yellowhammers in song, the dark colour of the bracken providing a perfect contrast for the vivid colour of the male Yellowhammers.

After a short climb I reached Eel Tarn, a very pretty spot with views of Harter Fell in one direction and Scafell Pike in another. A pair of Ravens flew overhead and on the tarn itself were two Mallard and a Little Grebe; both seemed a little out of place up here.

Eel Tarn and Harter Fell

It felt a bit strange to be up there again as the last time I visited Eel Tarn was 27 years ago when I was just 7 years old. My father used to take me for walks up there whilst my mother was getting ready to go out on our family holidays to a farm in Eskedale; needless to say the views are as good as ever although it was sad that my father is no longer here to join me on this walk.

With plenty of time before darkness I decided to walk further along to Burnmoor Tarn, another place I last visited as a child with my dad. The walk provided great views of nearby Scafell Pike as the clouds cleared to reveal the summit, although the footpath was soaked and lost amongst Sphagnum Moss and Bog Asphodel. Just as I was thinking that I should have seen more birds, a male Whinchat began calling from nearby bracken. It gave me good views for quite some time. Also showing themselves were a Wren and a Kestrel.

After sinking up to my knees in mud I reached a lonely Burnmoor Tarn where a strange hunting lodge is situated. On the lake were a pair of Great Crested Grebes and two pairs of Wheatears with young noisily feeding and fighting. The only tree for miles around is located next to the lodge and a Tree Pipit had managed to find it; funny how easy this is to seperate from Meadow Pipit when the two are seen close to each other - up here it is a Meadow Pipit heaven.

On the way back down into the valley I saw some more Whinchats before walking through some woodland where I saw a number of species: Chaffinch, Goldfinch, Wood Pigeon, Dunnock, Robin, Coal Tit and a juvenile Great Spotted Woodpecker. I walked back to the Woolpack Inn along the valley, through more woodland and farmyards and just before getting back to the car a Grey Heron flew out of a small stream and a Common Buzzard flew overhead.

Then off to the George the Fourth pub for chicken and leek pie which by that time was urgently needed.